April 29, 2014
My family was poor when I was very young. If we camped in the ShawneeNational Forest we had to catch fish in order to stay. A crappie haul from the lake meant one more day on the lake, one more swim, one more tramp in the woods. At home, we had designated foods for each day of the week and fried mush for most breakfasts—gag me. Friday was Vegetable Soup Day, for me by far the worst of the food days, worse even than liver and onion day, for the soup consisted of a tonnage of cooked, limp cabbage, just enough tomatoes and ketchup for a reddish tinge and a few carrot peelings and lots of salt. I have never been able to eat or smell cooked cabbage again. I did discover slaw, which I liked (hold the mayo) but I wasn’t crazy for it. Farmer B.’s wife Shirley makes a mean vinegar slaw (oh, her cucumber and onion salad!).
Last Wednesday, at Bobby Q’s Barbecue and Catfish, in Cookeville, Tennessee, I tasted something so good I can never eat regular slaw again. Now I lust for slaw, covet slaw—it may even be the last words I utter on my deathbed: Want . . . Charlie Hawkins’s Pool Room Slaw. Continue reading